Plaza 24 de Septiembre in Santa Cruz

Plaza 24 de Septiembre is Santa Cruz, Bolivia's central square around which the entire city has been built. Nearly 500 years old, it was renovated in 2005. On the Southern end is the Basilica de San Lorenzo, the equally ancient Catholic cathedral. Here you’ll also find the Mayor’s Office, City Council, and other government buildings, as well as a great many stores and souvenir shops, banks, and other centuries-old buildings.

This slide show contains photos of the plaza during the day and at night.

Like the hub of a bicycle wheel, Plaza 24 de Septiembre (named for the date on which the city of Santa Cruz was first established and celebrates its anniversary) is the heart of the city. From here all other streets radiate outward like spokes, and circular avenues called “anillos” (rings) cut across them, expanding outward for miles.

The city's social, business and political gathering place, thousands of people visit or walk through the plaza each day. Some take time out to people watch or rest in the shade, have a lazy conversation with friends, eat ice cream, or play chess. Others busily cross the plaza on their way to work, meetings, errands, and other places. The occasional political rally will fill the plaza to capacity and overflow into the adjoining streets.

This slide show contains photos of the plaza during the day and the inside of the cathedral.

On any given night you’ll find a very different atmosphere. Cruceños love to spend their time outdoors at night and the city is very much alive and kicking until late into the evening. (The photos above were taken on a Thursday evening at about 8 p.m. and there wasn't an empty bench to be found).

While some take in a movie at the “Cine Palace” movie theater, others attend mass at the basilica. Couples quietly converse under the dark of the trees while on one corner a loud 4-man band plays tropical music and on another a much louder 30-man band plays 40's jazz classics and tangos. Street lamps brighten the plaza and children laugh as they run around the trees. Families and friends gather and tourists take in the sights.

Since 2006 huge banners and flags have adorned surrounding buildings. The Department of Santa Cruz is demanding that each of Bolivia’s nine departments be autonomous and these banners reflect the local sentiment: “If you love her, defend her” is written in huge letters on a green and white Santa Cruz flag.

Contrary to what is usually reported in the international media, what Santa Cruz and several other departments in Eastern Bolivia are requesting is that each of the country's nine departments (similar to U.S. states) have control over its own income, budget and financial decision-making (as in the U.S.) and that only a portion be sent to the central government in the form of taxes (as in the U.S.) There has been no call to separate from Bolivia, form a new nation or join any one of the neighboring countries.

Plaza 24 de Septiembre is a reflection of life in Santa Cruz, at times bustling and noisy, and at times shady and serene. At the plaza there is a time for business and a time for socializing - and most of the time, a mixture of both. Don’t be surprised if you overhear a heated debate on the bench next to you while across from you others sleep in the shade.

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